MINNESOTA BEER ALL-STAR TEAM

This is a somewhat whimsical attempt to provide a tour of Minnesota breweries and an introduction to the variety of beer styles at the same time. In order to provide a challenge, (and to provoke some friendly discussion) I decided to see what type of beer “team” I could put together using each brewery or brewpub currently operating in Minnesota once and once only. (This idea owes some debt to recent attempts by Sports Illustrated to rank the greatest players to wear each uniform number regardless of sport, and to the All-Star teams that must include one player from each franchise.) I only used beers that have been a regular feature in a brewery’s lineup (though they may be seasonal offerings), which eliminated some outstanding Anniversary Ales and experimental brews. The limited beer lists of some brewers placed further constraints on my choices. For example, since Mantorville’s only regular beer is Stagecoach Ale, it gets the Amber Ale spot. The final list does not necessarily include the “best” beer from each brewery, or even my favorite but, when arranged roughly from lightest to heaviest, demonstrates the range of Minnesota’s craft brews. (It’s also a way for me to avoid outright rankings—which might upset the many great brewers in the state who helped with my book.) I’ve added a few special positions to provide some recognition to great brews that fill out the style list, but wouldn’t otherwise qualify.

The Starting Line-up:

Lake Superior Brewing Co., Duluth: Kayak Kölsch
A light, refreshing beer that is reminiscent of a pilsner, but is actually brewed with top-fermenting ale yeast instead of lager yeast. A lawnmower beer with actual character.

Green Mill Brewing Co., St. Paul: Grand Old Stone Beer (lager)
Using an old German tradition, hot stones are lowered into the beer as it brews, increasing the carmelization of the malt and creating a full-bodied flavor.

Rock Bottom Brewery, Minneapolis: El Jefe (hefeweizen)
This summer offering has all the big banana and clove aromas typical of the style, and a pleasing hazy, golden color. A great wheat beer like this shouldn’t be wrecked with a lemon.

O’Gara’s Bar & Grille, St. Paul: Raspberry Lambic
There just aren’t a lot of commercially-brewed examples of this sour Belgian style from Minnesota, and to be able to find this style at a place most residents associate with green beer on St. Patrick’s Day is a real bonus for this list. This is typically one of their refreshing summer beers. Yes, sour is refreshing--that’s why people enjoy lemonade.

August Schell Brewing Co., New Ulm: Oktoberfest
Way too many good choices from Schell’s, but I really wanted an “O-fest” in the starting lineup. Theirs is a well-balanced amber-orange lager in the great German tradition of Paulaner or Hacker-Pschorr.

Granite City Food & Brewery (five locations), Duke of Wellington IPA
An IPA may have either a floral aroma from English hops, or a citrusy aroma from hops grown in the Pacific Northwest. Wellington is closer to the English style.

Mantorville Brewing Co., Mantorville: Stagecoach Amber Ale
Amber ale is one of the styles developed during the American craft brewing revolution. They typically have more body and bitterness than many English bitters. Stagecoach evokes memories of Mantorville’s days as a stagecoach stop in the days before railroad.

Gluek Brewing Co., Cold Spring: Black & Tan
While many do not consider this an “official” beer style, this combination of lager and porter makes the lineup because there are very few bottled versions of the style, and because the black and gold Alum-a-bottle is among the most striking beer packages on the shelf.

Brau Brothers Brewing Co., Lucan: Scotch Ale
Scotch ales typically feature a complex malt character and have relatively low hop presence. Brau Brothers’ Scotch Ale is one of the finest bottled varieties in the country.

Great Waters Brewing Co., St. Paul: Brown Trout Brown Ale
In its most recent incarnation, Brown Trout is reminiscent of a traditional Yorkshire ale such as Old Peculiar—complex dark malt character with hints of dark fruit with enough hops to provide balance.

Summit Brewing Co., St. Paul: Winter Ale
This deserves a spot anyway, but it is guaranteed one because I would have to answer to my Dad if Summit Winter didn’t make the list. The brewery certifies that it is brewed according to the Bavarian Reinheitsgebot which prohibits anything other than water, malt, hops and yeast, but the spicy, aromatic character is a hallmark of this seasonal tradition and really makes one wonder if a spice fell in.

Surly Brewing Co., Brooklyn Center: Furious
The signature brew from a brewery that specializes in crossing traditional style guidelines, this may well be the hoppiest beer available in a can. (Pour it into a glass. Then it won’t taste like aluminum. Kegs are metal, too.)

Town Hall Brewery, Minneapolis: Smoked Porter
I needed a porter in the starting lineup, beers made with smoked malt are spectacular, so this was a logical choice.

Wellington’s/Backwater Brewing Co., Winona: Steamboat Stout
It’s not often that one can sit in a bowling alley and enjoy a stout brewed on the premises. Steamboat is not as roasty as Guinness, but has the balance more common to American stouts.

Flat Earth Brewing Co., St. Paul: Bermuda Triangle Belgian Triple
OK, I’m out of order color-wise, but since this medium golden ale has about 9% alcohol, it needs to be late in the line-up. This example of the abbey style also features honey for additional body and flavor (and more fermentable sugar).

Fitger’s Brewhouse, Duluth: Ole Redbeard Barleywine
Maybe you’ll be lucky enough to be around when Fitger’s is pouring several different vintages of Ole Readbeard at the same time. (Yes, there is such a thing as vintage beer.) Break out the snifter and the fireplace for this heavily aromatic and flavorful beer, which could substitute for port or sherry if necessary.

Barley John’s Brewpub, New Brighton: Dark Knight Returns
Break out the small snifter. This is what the high-gravity (high alcohol) Alfred’s Porter tastes like after resting for about a year in a barrel previously used for bourbon and a previous batch of Dark Knight. A spectacular medley of aromas and flavors, but one glass will be plenty.

Special Categories:

Third base coach (retired player)
Sherlock’s Home, Minnetonka: Bishop’s Bitter
A classic example of an English bitter, pulled from a cask rather than pushed by extra carbonation. Not served warm, just not ice cold, and not really all that bitter when compared to the average American craft ale.

First base coach (retired player)
Bandana Brewery, Mankato: Skyline Weizenbock
A German wheat beer brewed to bock strength (about 7%). Maybe this will reappear someday under a different label?

David Ortiz Award (best performance by a brewery no longer located in Minnesota)
Fighting Finches Maibock, Tyranena Brewing Co., Lake Mills, Wisconsin
Tyranena bought the brewing system of the short-lived Ambleside Brewing Co. of Minneapolis.

Best Foreign Film (most ubiquitous import)
Leinenkugel Bock, Leinenkugel Brewing Co., Chippewa Falls, Wisconsin
Sometimes it seemed like all that was keeping some of the small Wisconsin breweries alive was their ability to be the first bock into Minnesota’s liquor stores in the spring (which apparently started in January). Point Bock may have had more mystique, but Leine’s Bock was the one most Minnesotans turned to for a vicarious taste of Wisconsin tavern culture.